CAMBODIA’S SPECIAL FESTIVALS AND EVENTS
Cambodia has a wealth of traditional and international festivals. Most of these are a time of great rejoicing for the predominantly rural populace, many of whom flock to the capital to join in the celebrations and witness the organized fireworks displays which accompany the festivals. It is at these times the nation unites with a shared common understanding of values and traditions and they are looked forward to with great expectation. Even in times of hardship people try even harder to make these times special. All the traditional festivals are influenced by the concepts of Buddhism, Hinduism and royal cultures. The following are the most important of the celebrations organized throughout the year.
National Day (January 7)
One of the more recent additions to the festival calendar, this day marks the end of the Khmer Rouge regime. However for many Khmers it also marks the start of the Vietnamese regime seen as another period of foreign occupancy.
Chinese New Year (January or February)
Due to the large number of people of Chinese descent who run much of Cambodia’s business enterprises and Vietnamese immigrant communities, the Chinese New Year is widely celebrated, especially in Phnom Penh. No Chinese festival would be complete without fireworks and this time of year is no exception with many wealthy families organizing their own private displays which light up the skies for all to see.
Khmer New Year’s Day (Mid April)
Celebrated at the same time as the Thai New Year all over the country this festival marks the turn of the year based on the ancient Khmer calendar and also marks the end of the harvest done during the year. Cambodians decorate their homes to please the ‘Heaven God’ and many people can been seen on the streets armed with small bags of water and water pistols to ‘bless’ people passing by. This festival is one of the happiest times of the year with joyous smiling faces everywhere you turn. Cambodians do recognize International New Year on 1 January but there are no celebrations then.
Royal Plowing Day (May)
Cambodia has a deep connection with the Earth and farming, and there is a deep astrological belief that the Ox has an instrumental role in determining the fate of the agricultural harvest each year. Every year, in May, this cultural ceremony takes place in the large park next to the Royal Palace and in front of the National Museum. The King plays a key role in driving the Ox and depicting real plowing activities in the process of growing rice. The Ox is given a selection of foods and beverages to consume and the royal soothsayers interpret what the Ox has eaten. For this festival both men and women can be seen wearing brightly colored traditional Khmer costume.
King Sihanouk’s birthday celebration (October 31st)
This celebration revering the country’s influential king takes place in late October or early November. People from all over the country come to the capital to join in celebrations and festivities held throughout the capital. Often the King’s birthday and Water festivals coincide resulting in a mammoth celebration in front of the Royal Palace and along the riverfront. Provincial villagers who would ordinarily have no reason to visit Phnom Penh will save up and make this occasion their sole visit to the capital.
Water Festival (October or November)
This vast festival is probably the most extravagant festival in the calendar. Over three days starting with the last full moon day in October or the beginning of November up to a million people from all walks of life from all over the country flock to the banks of the Tonle Sap and Mekong rivers in Phnom Penh to watch hundreds of brightly colored boats with over 50 paddlers battle it out for top honors. The boat racing dates back to ancient times marking the strength of the powerful Khmer marine forces during the Khmer empire. In the evening brightly decorated floats cruise along the river prior to and complimenting the fireworks displays. There is often a parallel festival at Angkor Wat and although it is smaller in scale it is just as impressive due to the backdrop of Angkor Wat.
The festival marks the changing of the flow of the Tonle Sap and is also seen as thanksgiving to the Mekong river for providing the country with fertile land and abundant fish. It is at this time when the river flow reverts to its normal down stream direction. The remarkable phenomenon that is the Tonle Sap sees the river flowing upstream during the rainy season and then change direction as the rains cease and the swollen Tonle sap lake empties back into the Mekong river leaving behind vast quantities of the fish.
Independence Day
This important ceremony takes place on the 9th of November at the site of the Independence Monument at the junction of Norodom and Sihanouk Boulevards. This ceremony celebrates Cambodia’s gaining of independence from France in 1953. All over the city flags adorn the shop fronts and bunting stretched over all the main thoroughfares as a sign of national pride.
Angkor Festival
This festival is held either in November or December and is a showcase of performing arts with Angkor Wat as a backdrop. Performers from all over Asia attend this festival performing great epic stories from myths and legends, including the Ramayana, with their own national dance costumes and musical and rhythmic interpretations. King Sihanouk often attends when he is in residence in Siem Reap and other dignitaries come to witness this wonderful spectacle.
International Half Marathon (Late December)
This International Half Marathon is held at Angkor Wat and attracts competitors from all over the world. Thousands of people come to see this international event held in the spectacular setting that is Angkor.
Pchum Ben (September)
This is the most culturally and religiously significant event of the year and is celebrated in September. This festival of souls concentrates on blessing the souls of ancestors, relatives and friends who have passed away. All Buddhist temples, especially Wat Phnom, are the focal points for this festival and most Cambodians visit the temples to make traditional offerings and pray.
Other Holidays and Festivals
Cambodia also celebrates other special days including: International Women’s’ Day (8 March), International Workers’ Day (1 May), Genocide Day (9 May), Vesak Buchea Day - the anniversary of the birth, enlightenment, and death of Buddha (Late May), Plowing the Holy Furrow (Late May), Chol Vassa - Buddhist Lent (July), and International Human Rights Day (10 December)
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CAMBODIA: THE HIDDEN KINGDOM DISCOVERED
Cambodia has places of interest all over the country but the principle attractions can be divided into three main areas: Phnom Penh, Siem Reap/Angkor, and the South coast. However, for eco-tourists, more and more people are heading off the beaten track and venturing into the hill-tribe regions of Rattanakiri, Mondulkiri, the Kirirom National Park, and other more remote but beautiful rural areas.
PHNOM PENH
Cambodia’s modern capital is a vibrant bustling city nestling majestically on the banks of the confluence of the two mighty rivers of the Mekong and the Tonle Sap. These rivers then split again as the Mekong and the Tonle Bassac at a place known to the Khmers as Chaktomuk, meaning four faces. Phnom Penh is a veritable oasis compared to the modernity of other Asian capitals. With wide tree-lined boulevards and low-rise buildings Phnom Penh still harks back to the colonial days of this former French playground and the many older French colonial buildings, much in evidence, add to the ambiance. The area surrounding the Royal Palace has magnificent Khmer towers and remains particularly delightful. There are many open spaces and parks in the center which the locals use for recreation and relaxation. Pedaled rickshaws, called cyclos, still ply the streets as in colonial days and provide an excellent opportunity for sightseeing and people watching as well as the taxi service.
Silver Pagoda
The Silver Pagoda (or the temple of the emerald Buddha), formerly a wooden building, was rebuilt in 1962 in concrete and marble. The pagoda is floored with over 5000 silver tiles each weighing 1 kilo. It is famous for its 90kg solid gold Buddha made in 1907 and an emerald Buddha said to be made of baccarat crystal. Sharing the pagoda are many other interesting artifacts and jewels and was one of the few temples to remain intact during the Khmer Rouge regime. Open daily from 8am to 11am and 2:30pm to 5pm. Entrance fee US$3 per person. Camera fee US$2. Video fee US$5. Photography is allowed in the outside exhibition areas only. Please remember that exposed knees and shoulders are considered disrespectful.
National Museum
Designed by George Groslier and the Ecole des Arts Cambodgiens it was built in 1917 in traditional Khmer style and inaugurated in 1920 by King Sisowat. The National Museum houses the world’s foremost collection of ancient Khmer archeological, religious, and artistic artifacts from the 4th to the 13th centuries. There are over 5000 pieces and is the repository of the Kingdoms cultural wealth. In addition, the roof space is home to the largest bat colony in the world living in an artificial structure. Every evening these bats flock out of the roof and swarm around in the sky before searching for food. Open daily from 8am to 11am and 2:30pm to 5pm. Entrance fee US$2 per person. Photography is forbidden inside.
The Royal Palace
Unfortunately the royal residence, set back from the riverfront, is closed to visitors but is still visible from the outside and well worth seeing, located as it is between the Silver Pagoda and National museum.
Wat Phnom (Hill Temple)
Located on a man-made hill 27 meters high in the middle of Phnom Penh, Wat Phnom is a revered place of worship for all Khmers and is the namesake of the capital. The original pagoda was built in 1373 to house four Buddha statues said to have been deposited by the waters of the Mekong. The temple is the focal point for many Buddhist ceremonies especially Pchum Ben and his highly revered by Phnom Penh residents. Wat Phnom has a unique atmosphere and is surrounded by various fortune tellers, mystics, faith healers, and elephant rides around the site are available. Entrance costs US$1
Toul Sleng Museum (Formally Toul Svay Prey School)
Known as the Museum of Genocidal Crimes it was used by the Khmer Rouge as a detention and torture center in the late 1970s. Today the building houses exhibits, paintings and photographs of many of the victims. Visitors can see the crude cells built in the classrooms and the torture devices used to extract ‘confessions’ in Stalinesque purges of the regime. Open daily from 8am to 11am and 2:30pm to 5pm. Entrance fee US$2 per person.
The Killing Fields ( Boeung Choeung Ek )
Situated 15 kilometers south-west of Phnom Penh and made famous by the film of the same name it was a place where more than 17,000 civilians were killed and buried in mass graves; many of them transported here after detention and torture in Toul Sleng. This place is a chilling reminder of the brutalities of the genocidal Khmer Rouge regime. In the center of the area is a 17 story glass stupa which houses 8000 skulls exhumed from mass graves. Open daily. Entrance fee US$1 per person.
(Please note that both the Toul Sleng Museum and the Killing Fields exhibits may be disturbing for some and aren’t suitable for younger children and adults who are easily shocked.
Independence Monument
Built in 1958 as a memorial to Cambodia’s war dead after the gaining of independence from France in 1953, the monument, built in the Angkorian style, consists of five levels decorated with 100 snake heads. It is at its most impressive later in the afternoon with shadows highlighting the complexity of the design and giving the structure a warm orange glow.
The Tonle Sap Riverfront
The recently refurbished riverfront park is the focal point for the Phnom Penh residents’ leisure activities. Early risers can see the many locals welcoming the new day with Tai Chi and other exercises while the sun rises majestically over the river. In the early evening and all day Sunday many people stroll, picnic or just sit and watch the world go by. Local delicacies are served by vendors all along the riverfront and visitors can indulge in dried salted fish or another favorite, boiled duck embryos still in the shell.
National Library
The National Library is located next to the Royal Hotel and just West of Wat Phnom. This graceful building, another example of French colonial architecture, built in 1924 and set in floral gardens was sacked by the Khmer Rouge and turned into a stable. Many of the discarded books were picked up by the locals who donated them back to the library after 1979. Open daily from 8am to 11am and 2:30pm to 5pm. Entrance free.
The Markets
Of the more than a dozen markets in Phnom Penh many of them are of little interest to visitors, selling, as they do, general household purchases in many of the districts of the city. There are, however, several centrally located markets of real interest to shoppers, browsers and souvenir hunters alike. Be warned that nothing is priced and bargaining is a must, but unlike some neighboring countries, haggling here is good natured and fun.
The Central Market (New Market) is one of the largest and busiest markets in Phnom Penh. Built in 1937 by French architects and surprisingly cool, even in the heat of the hottest day, many interesting products are available. The eastern side, which is the main entrance, has many souvenirs and ornaments on sale from T-shirts to large stone heads. In the center are the many jewelry stores and precious stone vendors as well as a plethora of electronic goods merchants, cloth sellers and other dealers; most of them selling things considerably cheaper than back home.
The Toul Tom Pong Market (The Russian Market) is probably the city’s best source of objects d’art. Items for sale include wooden and stone carvings, various ritual objects, silverware, and old Indo-Chinese notes and coins. There is a large range of antiquities and curios for those prepared to ferret around the various stalls and there are also gold and silversmiths inside the market who can be seen custom making jewelry. This too is a good source of both Cambodian and Chinese silk and clothes. This is one of the most popular markets in Phnom Penh with foreign residents and tourists who can spend many an interesting hour browsing before choosing that perfect gift.
The O’Russei market on the North side of the Olympic Stadium is a typical Cambodian market catering to the everyday needs of the populace. Here the sights and smells of this market give the visitor the feel of a local market with many housewives still purchasing their foodstuffs on a daily basis. This market is full of local character and one can only imagine the banter that takes place between all the vendors and customers. Here, is one of the best selections of the different types of fruit from all over the region, though the choice, naturally, depends on the season.
The Olympic market is probably one of the cheapest markets in town with lots of wholesaling going on here. It was renovated and reopened in 1994 as a three story modern building with reportedly Cambodia’s only escalators.
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OPTIONAL TOURS AROUND PHNOM PENH
Mekong Island
A full day trip to Mekong Island is an excellent way to sample the daily lives and traditions of rural life in Cambodia. This ten-hectare island has been planned as an authentic showcase of the cultural, zoological, and agricultural diversity and richness of Cambodia. The price includes transport, excellent lunch and a captivating show of traditional Cambodian dance. There are also elephant rides available on very friendly Asian elephants.
Kien Svay
18 kilometers away from Phnom Penh, Kien Svay is the definitive Cambodian leisure resort. Every weekend many Phnom Penh residents get away from it all and relax by the water. Here they rent ‘Water Houses’, covered platforms built on stilts sunk into the river, and picnic on the water. They are accessible by boat and the platform owners take you there and back. There are also relaxing boat cruises that take you around the resort area.
Mo Ha Liep Resort Center (the children’s park)
This recreation area is out of Phnom Penh on the route to Kien Svay. This is a large park where 70 kinds of fruit trees have been planted with all of them being labeled in English and Khmer. There is a large swimming pool and Khmer food is served daily.
Udong
An ancient capital from the latter stages of the Khmer Empire and crowing site of the kings is located atop two parallel ridges 40 Km North of Phnom Penh. Udong offers spectacular views of the surrounding country and the innumerable sugar palm trees that punctuate the countryside. King Ang Dung, the great grandfather of the present king, King Sihanouk, was crowned here and many locals and foreign residents alike picnic here on weekends.
Phnom Chisor
This ancient Khmer temple stands on an 80 by 100-meter square plateau and faces East. Constructed in the 11th century of laterite and brick with carved sandstone lintels, the complex is surrounded by the partially ruined walls of a two and a half-meter wide gallery with inward facing windows. As with the other hilltop temples there are spectacular views of the surrounding countryside and Phnom Chisor makes an ideal excursion combined with Tonle Bati/ Ta Prohm Temple.
Tonle Bati/ Ta Prohm Temple
Not far South of Phnom Penh on the route to Phnom Chisor is a 12th century temple, Ta Prohm, built by Jayavaraman VII (1181-1201). Consecrated to the Buddha and the Brahma, the temple is noted for its refined bas reliefs. Nearby is a smaller temple, Yeay Peau, which also has remarkable stone carvings. Near Ta Prohm is a small lake, Tonle Bati, which is similar to Kien Svay as a leisure resort though on a smaller scale. Again there are ‘ Water Houses’ for rent and various food stalls.
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THE SOUTH COAST
Kampot
The pretty riverine town of Kampot is just five kilometers from the sea and serves the very popular seaside resort of Kep. Once a fashionable haunt of the French elite it was known as La Perle de la Cote d’Agathe and has stunning offshore islands and a beautiful bay. King Sihanouk owned one of these islands and would often use it for entertaining. This region is famous for its production of durian, the foul smelling fruit, and reputedly has the best seafood in the country.
Kompong Som (Sihanoukville)
Kompong Som, Cambodia’s only maritime port is 232 kilometres from Phnom Penh and accessible via one of the best inter-provincial roads in the country. Kompong Som is not only a seaport but an area famous for its picture-postcard tropical beaches. Situated as it is on a headland, visitors can choose from a range of beaches, several of which can often remain completely deserted. The most popular are Ochatial beach and Sokha Beach due their immediacy to the town.
Local fishermen will take visitors to any one of the nearby islands where the coral, teeming with tropical fish, is perfect for snorkeling, diving, and fishing. There are many restaurants catering to various national tastes but its well worth trying the freshly caught crab, shrimps, and other seafood the region has to offer.
The resort was established in 1964 and can be visited all year round to appreciate the warm sands, cool breezes and clear blue skies.
Bokor Hill station
In keeping with the colonial practices of the time, many of the French elite, unwilling to become accustomed to the heat of the Cambodian summer, retreated to the Bokor Hill station set in the Elephant Mountains. At an elevation of just over 1000m it is famous for its pleasant climate, clear streams and tranquil surroundings. Visitors will be taken in by the stunning panoramas, forested vistas and breathtaking views of the sea. The best time to visit is between November and May.
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SIEM REAP/ANGKOR
The town of Siem Reap, the provincial capital, is a pleasant sleepy backwater serving as a base for visits to the ancient capital of Angkor. With the recent completion of international standard hotels including the renovation of the famous Grand Hotel D’Angkor, the more than one hundred ancient temples and monuments in the vicinity can be enjoyed in style and comfort. Well organized guided tours ensure visitors make the most of their holidays regardless of length of stay. Though not essential, a well informed professional guide will enhance any tour, providing insight and history often not available in guide books. Many of the temples are best viewed at different times of the day due to their geographical orientation and the angle of the sun.
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THE MAJOR SIGHTS OF ANGKOR
In order to truly understand the real Cambodia, one must visit one of the great archeological sites in the world; the spiritual heart and identity of the Khmer people: the Angkor complex. Had any of the main temples, especially Angkor Wat been built anywhere else they would be as famous or as visited as the Taj Mahal, the Parthenon, the Coliseum, or the Pyramids of Egypt. Angkor is without doubt one of the most breathtaking architectural masterpieces left standing in the world today. Without witnessing them at first hand it is impossible to gauge the enormity of task faced by the builders of the time and the fact they are so complete after all this time is further testament to the advanced construction techniques employed more than a millennium ago. Everything is built on a massive scale and one can only imagine the awe felt by ancient visitors as the civilization was at its peak. It is estimated that over one million people lived there making it the largest metropolis in its time. Witness the two hand-dug reservoirs that served the civilization’s rice growing agriculture: The Eastern Baray measures 7km by 1.8km and the Western Baray a staggering 8km by 2.3 km.
Angkor Wat is the cultural home of the Khmer people and its form, in various guises has appeared and is still on the national flag. Had it been located in the Mediterranean basin it would have been one of the eight wonders of the world. The Lost City of Angkor was to remain undiscovered by Western archaeologists until the late 19th century and ever since has continues to amaze all who see it for the first time: neither words nor pictures do it justice. Angkor Wat is a legacy of the might that was once the Khmer Empire, a detailed history of which has been carved into the many walls of this fortified temple. The temple is accessible by a giant stone causeway across the 190 meter moat, itself an incredible feat of engineering, to the west face of the Wat.
Angkor Thom was built by Cambodia’s greatest builder, Jayavarman VII. This 10 square kilometer city is enclosed by an eight meter high wall and encircled by a 100metre moat said to have been inhabited by fierce crocodiles. There are five 20metre high gates in the wall in each of the North, West, and South walls and two in the East wall. Access is via causeways over the moat that are flanked by the statues of 54 Gods on the left and 54 devils on the right, all seemingly engaged in a game of tug of war.
The Bayon is located in the geographical heart of Angkor Thom. The 54-tower temple is a quite remarkable sight. Initially the temple seems to be a shapeless mass of gray and brown stone but as one approaches one realizes that each of the towers is in fact carved and there are over 200 huge enigmatic faces of Avalokitesharva bearing down on you wherever you turn. The Bayon is easily the most popular sight after Angkor Wat and no visit is complete without a trip to see this amazing and unique temple.
Ta Prohm was built in the late 12th century by Jayavarman VII as a shrine to his mother and is another must for anyone coming to Siem Reap. As a monastery there were nearly 3000 priests here including 18 high priests. Ta Prohm is unforgettable due to the massive trees that were left here intentionally by the archeologists working on the site. While clearing back the forest it was decided to leave them in place to serve as a reminder of how the original discovers found it and other temples. Many of the trees have grown around and through the remains, and soar high above the temple. This temple, along with those of the Bayon and Angkor form the core of any visit to Siem Reap.
Phnom Bakheng served as the temple mountain of the first city of Angkor as opposed to the previous center of Rolous. The capital built on a lone hill offers panoramic views of Angkor Wat, Angkor Thom and the surrounding areas. It is best visited in the late afternoon for a spectacular sunset or in the early morning for sunrise over Angkor Wat.
Banteay Srei
While some of the temples are impressive because of their sheer size, Banteay Srei stands alone in the quality of it s construction and decoration. Its pink, sandstone wall are decorated with what some consider to be the best carving of all and in an amazing state of preservation. Built in 967 and dedicated to Brahma it is located 25 kilometres North of Angkor Wat.
The Small Circuit takes in several of the major and minor temples in the area. Beginning at Angkor Wat and running for 17 kilometers, the circuit takes in the major elements of Angkor Thom, Ta Prohm, and Banteay Kdei. Also included are some of the minor but interesting temples such as The Baphoun, The terrace of thee Leper King, The Terrace of the Elephants, the twelve Prasats, Spean Thma, and Sras Srang before returning to Angkor Wat.
The 26-kilometre Big Circuit is an extension on the little circuit but taking in Preah Khan, Preah Neak Pean to the Eastern Mebon and other various monuments like Ta Som, Preah Rup, before returning to Angkor Wat and is highly recommended for anyone spending 3 or more days in the complex. The Big Circuit encompasses a good representation of the rich variety of architecture here.
Phnom Kulen is widely regarded as the birthplace of the ancient Khmer Empire and is some 48km from Siem Reap. This hilltop site has the country’s largest reclining Buddha and it was here that the King, Jayavarman II proclaimed independence from Java. It has only just returned to government hands after the fall of the Khmer Rouge and is currently fairly inaccessible due to the poor state of the roads especially in the rainy season. Cutting through the area is the River of 1000 Lingas. Just 5cm under the water’s surface over 1000 small carvings are etched into the sandstone riverbed while further downstream larger blocks of stone are carved with Apsaras, Vishnu, and other figures. All the sandstone used in the construction of Angkor was quarried here.
The Roulos Group was the capital of Indravarman I (877 to 889). These were the first temples built to last and are made of brick with some carved plaster reliefs. The group is made up of the 3 temples of Preah Ko, Bakong, and Lolei. Many of the later temples in the Angkor group are based on these earlier temples though constructed with laterite and sandstone rather than brick.
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